Florence - European Summer Travels 2024
Buongiorno! The sun is shining and the smell of freshly brewed coffee is in the air. Start your day by savoring a cappuccino and admiring Florence's staple, the famous Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore.
Historical Charm
Calcio Storico Fiorentino: a fascinating sport that blends soccer, rugby, wrestling and sprinkling some similarity to martial arts in a dangerous and often brutal game that takes place every year in June. Its rules were established in the 1500’s, although thought to go back to ancient Roman times when a similar game called "Harpastum" was played by soldiers. There are four teams that partake in the tournament (Santa Croce - Blue, Santa Maria Novella - Red, Santo Spirito - White, San Giovanni - Green), which are the pride of Florence and it’s a festivity that can take hours, even though the whole game takes about 50 minutes, but with plenty interruption due to serious injuries. Note that while the game is brutal, unless you are familiar with the rules it can seem quite confusing and uneventful from the sidelines, as knockouts happen in less than a second, so choose your blinks wisely. You can find a whole episode about it on Netflix series Home Game.
Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore: also known as the Duomo (the dome), its construction started in 1296 and took nearly 150 years to complete, blending designs, artistic styles and engineering techniques from various architects and artists. The façade that we see today was designed by Emilio De Fabris, completed in the 19th century. The remarkable and beautiful Gothic details, including marble panels in dark green, pink, and white, could easily come across as a piece of art, and yes, it’s even more impressive in its details and finish in person than in pictures. The outside masterpiece spills over the inside floor with colorful marble mosaics and stained glass windows.The cathedral still to this day hosts important religious ceremonies and events throughout the year and it’s the symbol of Florence’s resilience and a crucial site for art history. While the entry to the cathedral is free, to climb to the top of Brunelleschi's dome for a panoramic view of Florence requires a ticket. The climb involves 463 steps so make sure you have comfortable shoes and ready for quite the climb.
The Medici Family: the Medici raised to power and influence during the 13th century starting with Giovanni di Bicci de' Medici (1360–1429), who founded the Medici Bank and through a series of strategic marriages and financial investments managed to expand the family’s influence beyond commerce and banking, into politics, culture and society as a whole. The Medici managed to expand their control and influence from Florence to the Vatican, producing four popes: Leo X, Clement VII, Pius IV, and Leo XI who used their positions to promote Medici interests and grow their power. Their power didn’t come without opposition. They were exiled from Florence several times, but they always managed to return back thanks to their financial resources and connection.
Ponte Vecchio: dating back to 1345, the current structure was renovated after several floods, while its origins were built by the Romans in ancient times. Alongside the bridge there are several shops which are charming and filled with jewelry or souvenirs. However, the real gem is above the shops. A hidden passage known as the Vasari Corridor located inconspicuously hidden above the shops, built in 1565 by Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I de' Medici. It connects the Palazzo Vecchio with the Palazzo Pitti, allowing the Medici family to move freely and safely between their residences without having to mix with the public. The passage was closed to the public for renovations, and it’s due to reopen as of May 2024.
Art, Fashion and Culture
The Medici Family: patrons of the arts, the Medici commissioned works from artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Raphael. Sponsored many architectural masterpieces and renovation throughout Florence including the completion of the Florence Cathedral’s dome. Supported scientific research and advancement, including employing Galileo Galilei, as a tutor to the Medici son, which allowed him to pursue his revolutionary work. We all need some level of investment and sponsorship and Galileo Galilei was no exception. From bankers to grand dukes, the Medici shaped the political and cultural landscape of Florence and beyond. Their legacy, immortalized in the art and architecture they commissioned, continues to define the essence of Renaissance Florence.
Galleria Uffizi: designed by Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I de' Medici as administrative offices, it now houses one of the world’s most famous art collections, including works commissioned by the Medici. Its long corridors, with artistic and intricate ceilings that transport you back to Renaissance, the gallery includes hundreds, if not thousands of statues, sculptures and paintings.
Palazzo Pitti: commissioned by the banker Luca Pitti in 1458, the palace was supposed to reflect Pitti’s ambition and wealth, rivaling that of the Medici family. However in 1549 the Pitti family struggled financially and the palace was bought by Eleonora di Toledo, the wife of Cosimo I de' Medici. Palazzo Pitti underwent expansion and was the principal residence of the ruling families of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany which kept adding to the palace’s beauty. Today it houses several smaller museums and galleries, each offering a unique glimpse into Florence's rich cultural and artistic heritage. From paintings done by Raphael, Rubens and Macchiaioli, to showcasing Royal Apartments which are decorated with period furniture, tapestries and artwork, the palace offers a glimpse into the luxurious lifestyle of Florence’s most influential families of the time.
Boboli Gardens: Adjacent to the Palazzo Pitti, these gardens were designed for the Medici and are an example of Renaissance landscaping, perfect for a summer stroll.
Piazza della Signoria: has historical and cultural significance due to some of the important events that the square witnessed. From political events, public executions (the most famous being that of Girolamo Savonarola in 1498), public speeches and proclamations to the open air museum (Loggia dei Lanzi) and festivals, the piazza has seen it all. It always buzzes with energy and it’s a great place to grab a coffee while people-watching and soaking in history.
Hidden Gems
Antico Noe: you know it’s an authentic family owned restaurant when the menu is hand written in Italian (there’s no menu in english) and the restaurant is barely on google maps. On a small Florentine street you turn a corner, under what might seem like a bridge, finding the restaurant with the most real terrace, with absolutely delicious prosciutto e melone, pasta carbonara and juicy steak. In terms of opening hours, to quote their website: “They're open when they're open...the Italian way!”
All’Antico Vinaio: I’m sure you’ve seen it before on Instagram, but we’re here to say the hype is real. Their massive sandwiches are absolutely delicious, with freshly baked bread, loads of meats and options to choose from. The truffle options are mouth watery, but you can’t go wrong with any of them. They now have several locations open, but keep in mind there will always be a queue.
Osteria delle tre panche: opened in 1986, the terrace is such a great place to savor a great glass of wine, grab some entrees or dinner and slow down. Usually rooftops and terraces are few and during the summer are filled to a brim, so this is a nice spot to enjoy la dolce vita.
La Menagere: an absolute MUST-GO for dinner. Hidden away amongst the streets of Firenze, La Menagere is one of the best hidden gems one can come across. The restaurant is the perfect blend of restaurant, café, and home goods store, paying homage to its heritage (used to be La Ménagère, one of Florence's oldest and most beloved home goods stores, established in 1896) and can host large groups, private dining events or just an intimate dinner for two. The food is excellent and their wine and cocktail selection never disappoints. The concept is a unique and beautiful blend of antiques and contemporary styles, from exposed brick walls, vintage furniture, modern art installations and a grand piano, everything ties in together, offering not only a delicious dinner with local ingredients, but also an unforgettable night. Booking in advance for dinner is strongly encouraged.
Trattoria Vasari: classic Italian restaurant, with homemade pasta and delicious wine. Pasta Carbonara is a dish that feels like it’s made by a Toscany nonna (grandma), the steaks are made of local quality beef, while the pizzas are as you expect oven baked. But the whole menu selection, from charcuterie board, to bruschettas, lasagna and tiramisu feel like home, like you’re just visiting your family for dinner/lunch. If you usually enjoy a glass of Chianti Classico, then we recommend pairing the food with a Tignanello wine, the so-called Super Tuscans wines to elevate your experience. Note that during some of the public events such as the Calcio Storico the restaurant is closed, so the whole family and all the employees can enjoy the day.
Tips and Quirky Spots
Coffee: Ditta Artigianale founded by Francesco Sanapo, an award-winning barista and coffee roaster, is a must try. Sourcing high-quality, single-origin beans from around the world, Ditta Artigianale has multiple locations, but the Ditta Artigianale Neri is just a few minutes walking from Uffizi Gallery and Piazza della Signoria. The coffee is roasted in-house, ensuring freshness and optimal flavor profiles and their selection of coffee ranges from the classic espresso and cappuccino to more innovative creations like cold brew and nitro coffee. They also offer a nice range of breakfast or lunch options to go with the coffee. Keep in mind that during the mornings it can get incredibly busy, so you might just get a cappuccino to go while exploring the streets of Firenze.
Rooftops and terraces: Florence is a fairly small city, so there aren’t that many options in the first place. During the summer which is the peak tourist season, they tend to be overcrowded, expensive and most of them just not worth it. We recommend skipping La Terrazza (even if the view is beautiful, it came across as a crowded and overpriced hookup place), and cross the Ponte Vecchio, take a 10 minutes stroll to the top to have an amazing view of Florence and grab a drink at La Loggia.
Public and religious holidays: public holidays in Italy are usually around catholic religious events. During those times most local and family-oriented restaurants and businesses are closed, including the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore that hosts religious ceremonies, so you can attend the ceremony, but not visit the Dome as a tourist. All guides usually take the days off as well, so if you booked a guided experience online via GetYourGuide or Viator chances are your tour guide will not show up. And no, there’s no warming on the websites or notifications to inform you that the tour has been canceled.
Walking city: like most Italian cities, Florence is a walking city, filled with history that also comes with the famous cobblestones or sampietrini. If you’re wearing high heels, sampietrini is not your friend whatsoever and it will make your life a lot harder than it needs to be. Pack a lot of flat sandals, ballerinas or sneakers (we love a good pair of Vans or Nike’s air force one in these situations) to make your experience fun and “alla moda” at the same time.
Transportation: don’t bother renting a car just for Florence. Unless you want to explore other cities or the countryside, the city has incredibly busy and small streets that’s no fun for those who lack patience or for those faint of hearts. There is no Uber available in Florence, and the local taxis are quite tricky to call as Italian level of speaking and understanding is required. Either rely on your hotel to call you a car and expect to pay extra or book your hotel close to a train station to get in and out of the city fast. If you think walking in heels on the cobblestones streets is hard, wait until you have to drag after you a huge suitcase, therefore we recommend not only you travel light, but also choose your accommodation wisely.
Flying to Florence: if you’re already in Europe and you booked your flights in advance, chances are you can fly directly to Florence Airport (FLR), however if you’re flying internationally or try to book a last minute flight during summer time then we recommend checking flights also to some of the nearby airports such as Bologna (BLQ), Pisa Airport (PSA), or Verona Airport (VRN) and take the train into Florence. Bologna Airport (BLQ) is 53 min by train to Florence, while Pisa Airport (PSA) to Florence is about 1 hour. If you need to get from the airport to the train station each city has its own rules on Uber / no Uber so do your research first. For example in Bologna Uber is available, while it doesn’t work in Florence.
Short day trips: from Florence if you have a day or two to spare, we’d recommend checking out the famous and beautiful seaside Cinque Terre, or check the leaning tower of Pisa, or just indulge the Tuscany wine and food guided experience. For more day trips feel free to explore some of GetYourGuide recommandations.
